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Post by SteveKowalski on Dec 16, 2013 14:47:36 GMT -5
Anybody ever use solder?
Sure it's lead (not nice) possibly with flux
- the piece in my hand (prompting this question) is small dia. can't tell.
Will the flux leach out? screwing up the fly (AND/OR THE ENVIRONMENT)
Bad Idea? or No BFD?
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Post by RileyVacinek on Dec 16, 2013 23:53:02 GMT -5
If it has flux it will be pretty obvious usually. It will be multi core a lot like a fly line. If it has the chance of containing flux that's an absolute no on practical use. Otherwise I think you are stuck with trial and error. Your safest bet would be to start with a new tube of a known alloy. There are hundreds of options and I'm sure one would work if you really want it to but I doubt it's cheaper or advantageous in any way to be honest.
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Post by RileyVacinek on Dec 16, 2013 23:54:58 GMT -5
Forgot the important part, flux is usually an acid meaning it would likely ionize when wet and therefor easily leaching and likely ruining your fly and a few other things if you like to fish the same spot a lot lol.
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Post by SteveKowalski on Dec 17, 2013 10:07:51 GMT -5
"and a few other things if you like to fish the same spot a lot"
Dude, dilution is the solution! at leased that's what the frickin' frackers say.
Naw, if it's a question - I'm not really going to use it - unless everyone said it was inert/harmless.
It's really fine and the ends are crushed, so you can't tell. I suppose I could heat it up and see if it bubbles.
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Post by chucklarsen on Dec 17, 2013 11:00:52 GMT -5
If you melt it and it leaves a yellow,brown or black bubbly residue, it has flux. Electronic solder is usually 60% tin and 40% lead with a rosin core flux, which I believe is made from turpentine. It's not the same as acid flux as the acid is too corrosive for electronic work. So I guess the main concern would be the 40% lead, if your OK with that, I say have at it! They do make lead and flux free solder which is a pain in the ass to work with but would be great for wrapping around shanks!
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Post by chucklarsen on Dec 17, 2013 12:22:05 GMT -5
Assuming it's electronics solder......
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Post by RileyVacinek on Dec 17, 2013 13:02:47 GMT -5
I'm only familiar with the welding side of things, I didn't realize the electronic used a different flux so I say go with chucks opinion. I know some stainless solder that I just used a while ago didn't have flux but was only like 20$ for a sample size ha.
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Post by B.Ingersoll on Dec 18, 2013 9:11:11 GMT -5
If you melt it and it leaves a yellow,brown or black bubbly residue, it has flux. Electronic solder is usually 60% tin and 40% lead with a rosin core flux, which I believe is made from turpentine. It's not the same as acid flux as the acid is too corrosive for electronic work. So I guess the main concern would be the 40% lead, if your OK with that, I say have at it! They do make lead and flux free solder which is a pain in the ass to work with but would be great for wrapping around shanks! Yea that (above) and then there is tin'ers solder for use with tin'ers irons which is a different make up and the flux (typical - M Acid liquid for galvanized, ruby red for stainless) is applied prior by brush)…………….disclosure = per memory only. I have also played around with solder , creating experimental weight forward sink tips. If you want something thin yet dense check with Nick and see if there is Tungsten wire available these days. A grain scale (or rifle reloading scale) is useful for such tinkering on snowy days also. Enjoy the outdoors……… |
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Post by SteveKowalski on Dec 18, 2013 10:05:18 GMT -5
I suppose I could melt it into cool shapes: minnow bodies, stonefly abdomens... eliminating (burning off) the flux.
not worth the effort...
Thanks for the info guys
I do have lead wire if I need it, but I found this small amount of thin solder and got to thinkin'
happy tying!
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