Post by Frank Swarner on Dec 27, 2009 14:31:13 GMT -5
I think most of you saw the post I had made about this fly and I finally got around to making a step by step tutorial for the tying.
I fished this concoction in the Salmon River for Steelhead for the first time this past November. The first time I tried it I landed back to back to back steelhead and the next day I landed a nice Brownie. It didn't work all the time but it was nice to be able to show them something different.
The name is sort of a play on words in regards to a spinner known as the CP Swing, except in this case "CP" stands for "Cotter Pin"
It definitely isn't traditional, classic or refined but it is different and the fish don't know what any of the above is anyway.
Have fun with it and play around with materials.....I am still tinkering with it myself!!
CP Swing Nymph
Hook: Daiichi Boss 2571 size 2
Cotter Pin: 1/ 16 x 1" long
Traier/Stinger material: 40lb mono
Thread: 6/0 Brown
Tail: Turkey Biots - brown
Abdomen Dubbing: Ice Dubbing Olive Brown
Thorax Dubbing: Dark Brown or Chocolate Brown sprectrablend or similar
Wingcases: Ringneck Rump Hackle from the pelt - natural
Hackle: Ringneck Pheasant Rump Hackle - natural
Cross Ribbing: fine mono
Antennae: Turkey Biots - brown
Trailer Hook
Put the hook in the vise and attach the thread.
Spin some Olive Brown Ice Dubbing onto your thread and wrap it onto the hook shank. Try to make a small ball of dubbing on the hook shank. This will help to keep the biot tails seperated.
Take two Turkey Biots and tie them in on either side of the ball of dubbing.
Spin some Olive Brown Ice Dubbing onto your thread and wrap it onto the hook shank to create the "body". Try to make a small ball of dubbing just before the eye of the hook.
Take two Turkey Biots and tie them in on either side of the ball of dubbing. Spin some more dubbing onto the thread and wrap it over the butt ends of the biots. Whip finish and apply cement.
Cotter Pin
Place the cotter pin into your vice, attach the thread and make tight turns to keep the two halves of the cotter pin in place. Sometimes they slide so you may have to hold the cotter pin in your hand and make a few turns of thread before inserting into the vice.
Take a 5" piece of 40lb mono and slide on the trailer/stinger hook. Slip one tag end under the CP and the other on top of the CP. Form a loop so the hook has room to move freely and pinch the tag ends with your right hand and make a few turns of thread with your left hand.
Slide the bottom tag end up through the eye of the CP and slide the tag on top down through the eye of the CP. This seems to help keep the mono in place when lashing it onto the CP.
When you get to the eye, fold each tag end back over the shank and bind them solidly to the hook shank. Trim the tags at about the mid point of the shank and apply some glue.
Spin some Olive Brown Ice Dubbing onto your thread and wrap it onto the CP shank. Try to make a small ball of dubbing.
Pluck a feather from the rump of a Ringneck Pheasant pelt and strip off all of the lower filoplumes. Tie the feather flat on top of the body with a few turns of thread. Pull the stem slightly to seat the feather. Finish binding the stem to the shank and trim off excess.
Spin some Dark Brown or Chocolate Spectrablend dubbing onto your thread and wrap it onto the CP shank to begin creating the thorax. Stop at the midpoint or slightly past.
Pluck a feather from the rump of a Ringneck Pheasant pelt and strip off all of the lower filoplumes. Tie the feather flat on top of the body with a few turns of thread. Pull the stem slightly to seat the feather. Finish binding the stem to the shank and trim off excess.
Tie the mono cross ribbing on the underside of the CP shank. Also tie in the Ringneck Pheasant rump hackle by the tip onto the underside of the shank.
Spin some Dark Brown or Chocolate Spectrablend dubbing onto your thread and wrap it onto the CP shank to begin creating the thorax. Stop just short of the eye of the CP.
Wrap the Ringneck Pheasant Rump hackle the opposite direction of the thread wraps. Three turns is about all you will get. Tie off short of the eye of the CP. Take the mono cross ribbing and wrap it in the normal direction so it criss crosses over the stem. Tie off at the eye of the CP and trim excess
Take two Turkey biots and tie them flat, extending out over the eye of the CP.
Pluck a feather from the rump of a Ringneck Pheasant pelt and strip off all of the lower filoplumes. Tie the feather flat on top of the body with a few turns of thread. Pull the stem slightly to seat the feather. Finish binding the stem to the shank and trim off excess.
Finish the fly with a whip fnish or two and coat the head with cement.
I fished this concoction in the Salmon River for Steelhead for the first time this past November. The first time I tried it I landed back to back to back steelhead and the next day I landed a nice Brownie. It didn't work all the time but it was nice to be able to show them something different.
The name is sort of a play on words in regards to a spinner known as the CP Swing, except in this case "CP" stands for "Cotter Pin"
It definitely isn't traditional, classic or refined but it is different and the fish don't know what any of the above is anyway.
Have fun with it and play around with materials.....I am still tinkering with it myself!!
CP Swing Nymph
Hook: Daiichi Boss 2571 size 2
Cotter Pin: 1/ 16 x 1" long
Traier/Stinger material: 40lb mono
Thread: 6/0 Brown
Tail: Turkey Biots - brown
Abdomen Dubbing: Ice Dubbing Olive Brown
Thorax Dubbing: Dark Brown or Chocolate Brown sprectrablend or similar
Wingcases: Ringneck Rump Hackle from the pelt - natural
Hackle: Ringneck Pheasant Rump Hackle - natural
Cross Ribbing: fine mono
Antennae: Turkey Biots - brown
Trailer Hook
Put the hook in the vise and attach the thread.
Spin some Olive Brown Ice Dubbing onto your thread and wrap it onto the hook shank. Try to make a small ball of dubbing on the hook shank. This will help to keep the biot tails seperated.
Take two Turkey Biots and tie them in on either side of the ball of dubbing.
Spin some Olive Brown Ice Dubbing onto your thread and wrap it onto the hook shank to create the "body". Try to make a small ball of dubbing just before the eye of the hook.
Take two Turkey Biots and tie them in on either side of the ball of dubbing. Spin some more dubbing onto the thread and wrap it over the butt ends of the biots. Whip finish and apply cement.
Cotter Pin
Place the cotter pin into your vice, attach the thread and make tight turns to keep the two halves of the cotter pin in place. Sometimes they slide so you may have to hold the cotter pin in your hand and make a few turns of thread before inserting into the vice.
Take a 5" piece of 40lb mono and slide on the trailer/stinger hook. Slip one tag end under the CP and the other on top of the CP. Form a loop so the hook has room to move freely and pinch the tag ends with your right hand and make a few turns of thread with your left hand.
Slide the bottom tag end up through the eye of the CP and slide the tag on top down through the eye of the CP. This seems to help keep the mono in place when lashing it onto the CP.
When you get to the eye, fold each tag end back over the shank and bind them solidly to the hook shank. Trim the tags at about the mid point of the shank and apply some glue.
Spin some Olive Brown Ice Dubbing onto your thread and wrap it onto the CP shank. Try to make a small ball of dubbing.
Pluck a feather from the rump of a Ringneck Pheasant pelt and strip off all of the lower filoplumes. Tie the feather flat on top of the body with a few turns of thread. Pull the stem slightly to seat the feather. Finish binding the stem to the shank and trim off excess.
Spin some Dark Brown or Chocolate Spectrablend dubbing onto your thread and wrap it onto the CP shank to begin creating the thorax. Stop at the midpoint or slightly past.
Pluck a feather from the rump of a Ringneck Pheasant pelt and strip off all of the lower filoplumes. Tie the feather flat on top of the body with a few turns of thread. Pull the stem slightly to seat the feather. Finish binding the stem to the shank and trim off excess.
Tie the mono cross ribbing on the underside of the CP shank. Also tie in the Ringneck Pheasant rump hackle by the tip onto the underside of the shank.
Spin some Dark Brown or Chocolate Spectrablend dubbing onto your thread and wrap it onto the CP shank to begin creating the thorax. Stop just short of the eye of the CP.
Wrap the Ringneck Pheasant Rump hackle the opposite direction of the thread wraps. Three turns is about all you will get. Tie off short of the eye of the CP. Take the mono cross ribbing and wrap it in the normal direction so it criss crosses over the stem. Tie off at the eye of the CP and trim excess
Take two Turkey biots and tie them flat, extending out over the eye of the CP.
Pluck a feather from the rump of a Ringneck Pheasant pelt and strip off all of the lower filoplumes. Tie the feather flat on top of the body with a few turns of thread. Pull the stem slightly to seat the feather. Finish binding the stem to the shank and trim off excess.
Finish the fly with a whip fnish or two and coat the head with cement.