Post by BrentKelley on Jun 19, 2010 20:57:36 GMT -5
Fishing with CDC dry flies
Although there is much discussion about CDC being “unsinkable”, a “natural floatant” and “like a cork”, the truth is that CDC feathers have their limitations when used for tying dry flies. That being said, the same argument can be made for any and all other materials; natural and synthetic. Almost every material has applications where they do well and others where they perform poorly.
The fact is, CDC flies can be very effective in certain situations, but maximizing their use takes some patience and understanding. Hopefully I can shed some light on how to maximize the effectiveness of the CDC flies in your arsenal.
And I would argue that any arsenal is made better by the presence of several CDC patterns.
First and foremost, one should never use silicone floatants on CDC flies under any circumstances. Applying the liquid or paste floatants will ruin the natural characteristics of the feather fibers and pretty much ruin the chance to capitalize on the unique qualities CDC offers. Try and keep the flies dry even when tying them onto tippets.
A certain amount of rigorous false casting is virtually a necessity when fishing CDC flies. The rapid movement of the fly through the air serves to expel water from between fibers and also dry other materials incorporated into the fly pattern. Despite the fragile look of CDC fibers and feathers they tend to be pretty tough and can endure the rigorous casting motion. The more powerful the casting stroke, the more water gets driven from the fly. Those folks that use relatively whippy rods and a slow, languorous casting motion may have difficulty drying the fly between drifts. Roll casting continuously also does not allow the fly to dry out properly.
When the fly does get soaked it can be rubbed between sheets of super absorbent chamois- or better yet- pieces of Amadou to dry it. I prefer the Amadou (which is derived from a fungus growth in Europe) although I carry chamois in my vest as well. Usually I simply squeeze and massage the fly between sheets until I can see that it has visibly dried. Then I simply blow on it lightly to reestablish the delicate texture.
Catching several fish on a single fly will usually put the fly out of commission for the day. I rinse these flies as well as I can before putting them in my Fly Trap to dry for a day or two. Generally they come right back the next time I want to use them.
The dry desiccants can also be used to get a fly back in shape to fish. It is imperative that the fly be “clean” when it goes into the shaker so rinse it very well to ensure a successful treatment. It works best to have flies preliminarily dried before sticking them in the desiccant shaker. Due to the light nature and high surface area of the CDC fibers a lot of desiccant will stick to the material, so blow on the fly vigorously after removing it from the shaker. Leaving excess desiccant will do more harm than good in the long run.
Check the fly periodically when fishing. A small amount of algae or fish slime will diminish the qualities of the CDC that led you to choose it in the first place. Once dirty or saturated CDC dos not float any better than a hackled fly in similar condition.
One of the frequent complaints about CDC is that the flies tend to float very low in the meniscus and therefore become difficult to see. At times this is very true, although the fish have little trouble picking them out and at times prefer that much lower profile. Learning to spot the fly is a matter of training the eye and lots of practice. As with all flies and all patterns, choosing the right fly for the situation is most important- not whether your favorite pattern is one fly or another. No fly is “perfect” for all situations and conditions, but there are definitely times when CDC patterns are called for and will out-perform more traditional ties.
Generally I choose CDC patterns for finicky fish in smooth water situations, avoiding their use in rough water conditions or pocket water. Long slow pools in medium to low gradient streams (like most of our WNY waters) or even still water seem best for using CDC patterns. Use heavily hackled flies for the vigorous splashy streams you fish.
One exception I make to the above point is that I favor using CDC patterns for all stoneflies because the light texture of CDC feathers tied in “downwing” style mimic natural stonefly wings almost perfectly. Generally I fish dry stoneflies in the riffles so the water is swift and rollicking. Nonetheless, I get plenty of fish before I am forced to change flies because one becomes saturated.
Not all CDC is created equal, and the way the CDC is used (or tied in) can often determine the usefulness of the fly for a given circumstance. Often CDC is left loose in the tie, but at other times it is wound in tightly. In some patterns it is used both ways. Loose fibers float better but need frequent drying. Tight wraps generally provide little in the way of floatation, but can help mimic lifelike qualities. Experiment around to find out what patterns work best for you under different conditions.
Patterns that have CDC fibers tied in so that they are open (rather than looped) will inevitably dry more easily. Tightly packed CDC fibers also resist drying more than loose forms. Regular CDC feathers tend to separate and dry more quickly than the small oiler puffs, but the puffs do make terrific upright wings when tied in comparadun-style on smaller flies. As you fish with a fly, keep in mind the tying methods so you will have some idea how to treat the fly to maintain its viability.
Given that CDC patterns have become proven trout takers, it pays to have some in your fly boxes. Learning how to fish with them and also when best to employ them will more than justify the space they take up. Follow some of these simple “maintenance” rules, and don’t expect miracles.
Although there is much discussion about CDC being “unsinkable”, a “natural floatant” and “like a cork”, the truth is that CDC feathers have their limitations when used for tying dry flies. That being said, the same argument can be made for any and all other materials; natural and synthetic. Almost every material has applications where they do well and others where they perform poorly.
The fact is, CDC flies can be very effective in certain situations, but maximizing their use takes some patience and understanding. Hopefully I can shed some light on how to maximize the effectiveness of the CDC flies in your arsenal.
And I would argue that any arsenal is made better by the presence of several CDC patterns.
First and foremost, one should never use silicone floatants on CDC flies under any circumstances. Applying the liquid or paste floatants will ruin the natural characteristics of the feather fibers and pretty much ruin the chance to capitalize on the unique qualities CDC offers. Try and keep the flies dry even when tying them onto tippets.
A certain amount of rigorous false casting is virtually a necessity when fishing CDC flies. The rapid movement of the fly through the air serves to expel water from between fibers and also dry other materials incorporated into the fly pattern. Despite the fragile look of CDC fibers and feathers they tend to be pretty tough and can endure the rigorous casting motion. The more powerful the casting stroke, the more water gets driven from the fly. Those folks that use relatively whippy rods and a slow, languorous casting motion may have difficulty drying the fly between drifts. Roll casting continuously also does not allow the fly to dry out properly.
When the fly does get soaked it can be rubbed between sheets of super absorbent chamois- or better yet- pieces of Amadou to dry it. I prefer the Amadou (which is derived from a fungus growth in Europe) although I carry chamois in my vest as well. Usually I simply squeeze and massage the fly between sheets until I can see that it has visibly dried. Then I simply blow on it lightly to reestablish the delicate texture.
Catching several fish on a single fly will usually put the fly out of commission for the day. I rinse these flies as well as I can before putting them in my Fly Trap to dry for a day or two. Generally they come right back the next time I want to use them.
The dry desiccants can also be used to get a fly back in shape to fish. It is imperative that the fly be “clean” when it goes into the shaker so rinse it very well to ensure a successful treatment. It works best to have flies preliminarily dried before sticking them in the desiccant shaker. Due to the light nature and high surface area of the CDC fibers a lot of desiccant will stick to the material, so blow on the fly vigorously after removing it from the shaker. Leaving excess desiccant will do more harm than good in the long run.
Check the fly periodically when fishing. A small amount of algae or fish slime will diminish the qualities of the CDC that led you to choose it in the first place. Once dirty or saturated CDC dos not float any better than a hackled fly in similar condition.
One of the frequent complaints about CDC is that the flies tend to float very low in the meniscus and therefore become difficult to see. At times this is very true, although the fish have little trouble picking them out and at times prefer that much lower profile. Learning to spot the fly is a matter of training the eye and lots of practice. As with all flies and all patterns, choosing the right fly for the situation is most important- not whether your favorite pattern is one fly or another. No fly is “perfect” for all situations and conditions, but there are definitely times when CDC patterns are called for and will out-perform more traditional ties.
Generally I choose CDC patterns for finicky fish in smooth water situations, avoiding their use in rough water conditions or pocket water. Long slow pools in medium to low gradient streams (like most of our WNY waters) or even still water seem best for using CDC patterns. Use heavily hackled flies for the vigorous splashy streams you fish.
One exception I make to the above point is that I favor using CDC patterns for all stoneflies because the light texture of CDC feathers tied in “downwing” style mimic natural stonefly wings almost perfectly. Generally I fish dry stoneflies in the riffles so the water is swift and rollicking. Nonetheless, I get plenty of fish before I am forced to change flies because one becomes saturated.
Not all CDC is created equal, and the way the CDC is used (or tied in) can often determine the usefulness of the fly for a given circumstance. Often CDC is left loose in the tie, but at other times it is wound in tightly. In some patterns it is used both ways. Loose fibers float better but need frequent drying. Tight wraps generally provide little in the way of floatation, but can help mimic lifelike qualities. Experiment around to find out what patterns work best for you under different conditions.
Patterns that have CDC fibers tied in so that they are open (rather than looped) will inevitably dry more easily. Tightly packed CDC fibers also resist drying more than loose forms. Regular CDC feathers tend to separate and dry more quickly than the small oiler puffs, but the puffs do make terrific upright wings when tied in comparadun-style on smaller flies. As you fish with a fly, keep in mind the tying methods so you will have some idea how to treat the fly to maintain its viability.
Given that CDC patterns have become proven trout takers, it pays to have some in your fly boxes. Learning how to fish with them and also when best to employ them will more than justify the space they take up. Follow some of these simple “maintenance” rules, and don’t expect miracles.
