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Post by Geoff Schaake on Sept 10, 2007 13:34:04 GMT -5
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Post by Steve Dobmeier on Sept 10, 2007 21:54:23 GMT -5
Shaq,
There's a few things that are making you struggle. Your execution of the snap is good but it look as if the line is landing to far away from you(upstream). Make sure that point p lands just about a rod length away from you when the line lands from the snap. If point p is to far away from you then the line will not travel in the 180 degree principle. The other crux that I can see is that your rod isn't traveling in a flat horizontal sweep when you start the rip, or white mouse. Your rod tip is to high and then it seems that you dip the rod before you bring it up into the firing position which results in more line stick and a loss of energy. Your rod should travel in a flat horizontal path and then be raised up at the end of the rip to form the D-loop. The best analogy that I can give for the execution of the rip, is to think of your waist to be the equator and fallow that path until you come around and then lift the rod into the firing position. What makes me think that the line is to far away from you is when you watch your forward stroke look at the path that the line travels. It seems that when you make your forward cast the line comes up and around rather than up and out. As far as to much top hand, when your casting, try only using your thumb and index finger to hold the top of the rod rather than you whole hand, this will force you to use more bottom hand and not push with the top hand as much, it may seem weird at first but that's how I learned to use less top hand. Also use put your left thumb on the top of the rod butt which will force you to use more bottom hand. Are you getting tailing loops? Do you hear the fly whizzing by your head? Is your leader not straightening out? Open loop rather then tighter loop? Also when you come up into the D-loop or firing position watch your line to make sure that the fly and leader are lined up with the line if it is crooked or you see that you have the "bloody L" then your line leader and fly are not lined up into the 180 degree line that it should be. You will notice this because the fly may come really close to you or if you reef on the cast you get a loud crack on the forward stroke. I hope I am not being to much of a stickler but these were just some points and some observations that I made. Hope this helps.
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Post by Geoff Schaake on Sept 11, 2007 6:22:17 GMT -5
exactly what I wanted to get, Thanks. I am never satisfied and being self-taught, I know I have some bad habits. Thanks alot! Back to the drawing board!
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Post by Nick Pionessa on Sept 11, 2007 8:11:40 GMT -5
Shaq, Steve has it pretty well. here's what i would add, when you start the cast the rod should be pointed straight down stream and make the "c" with the rod lower and pointed down stream. this will get the line to land closer to you and the anchor point further downstream, just off you right shoulder. the rod should never be pointed across the river, it should always be downstream. think about it, the further out you point the rod the further out and upstream the line goes. the more downstream the rod the closer the line and anchor land. i think this is the root of your problem with this cast. after the snap part, as Steve said make that second stage rod tip path much lower and parellel to the water surface with a continous rise of elevation, with a moderate speed then increase the speed as the rod passes your shoulder and is directing the line behind you into the "D". slow, faster, then faster still as the energy is directed into the loop. you are getting a decent "D" especially on the last cast, but the anchor position is too far upstream and out and loses energy. you also need to slow down and pause between each stage, the snap is a water born anchor cast and needs that water stick that you get by slowing down and pausing slightly between stages. if possible the line and anchor should only be a rod's length from you the whole time. all in all you are getting some good distance and forward loop size, just get that anchor closer in and you will see a huge difference in energy. if you don't have Simon's Speycasting book you probably should pick one up as all of the answers are in there and that book did more for me in one year than five years flogging on my own. he focuses on the path of the rod tip and the stop positions, which for me, made all the difference. you are definitely well on your way and if you haven't hooked yourself recently you are most of the way there!
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Post by Geoff Schaake on Sept 11, 2007 9:10:30 GMT -5
thanks,
I will pick up the book.
I think also the fact that the water was 100cfs on the salmon, I couldn't get it to swing all the way through so I was delibrately starting the cast early. May be a factor. I don't know
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Post by WylieSchroederHaggerty on Sept 11, 2007 11:16:12 GMT -5
Shaq
Simon also has a pocket sized guide to Spey Casting. It well illustrated and very helpful water proof and focuses on the paths to follow with the rod tip. It can fit right in your vest and on those days when one is struggling you can pull it out and hopefully save on some frustration.
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